Yosemite Sam

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Yosemite Sam, a cartoon character in the Looney Tunes and Merrie Melodies series of short films produced by Warner Bros. He is commonly depicted as an extremely aggressive, gunslinging outlaw or cowboy with a hair-trigger temper and an intense hatred of rabbits. His name is taken from Yosemite National Park and he is an adversary of Bugs Bunny. No supports are required. Three pieces contains built-in supports. A optional parts without the built-in supports are also supplied if you want to use your slicer supports (see notes below). If you have the proper filament colors, no painting is needed. The assembled model is 235mm tall and is mostly in proportion to my previously released Looney Tunes models. Enjoy! ........................................................................................................... Special shoutout to maker Benoît Lussier for providing QA printing and quality feedback. Another shoutout to the guys at 3DBoom (Thingiverse id: 3db00m) for printing a final proof copy of this model. A picture of the front view of their print is included. See their build under their full make for more details............................................................................................................ Print Instructions:Supports: NoResolution: .2mmInfill: 10% Notes:** Refer to the notes below for a few helpful printing and assembly instructions. ........................................................................................................... Building the model Colors Black: (Paramount3D PLA - Black)eyeblackrighteyeblackleftheadblackbeltgunhandleleftgunhandlerightshoeleftshoeright.. Skin: (Paramount3D PLA - Universal Beige)handlefthandrightearleftearrightnose.. Yellow: (Unknown PLA - Yellow)tie.. Dark Red: (Paramount3D PLA - Iron Red)shirt.. Gold: (Hatchbox PLA - Gold)buckle.. Blue: (Parmount3d PLA - Cadet Blue)pants.. Red: (Hatchbox PLA - True Red)eyebrowlefteyebrowrightmoustacheleftmoustacherightmoustacheleftwithoutsupports (optional piece)moustacherightwithoutsupports (optional piece).. Silver: (unknown PLA - Silver)gunbarrel (contains two identical pieces)guncylinder (contains two identical pieces)gunframepin (contains two identical pieces)gunframeleftgunframeright.. White: (Overture PLA - White)eyewhitelefteyewhiteright.. Light Brown: (Paramount3D PLA - Dark Complexion)hathatwithoutsupports (optional piece).. Medium Brown: (Polymaker PLA - Army Brown)chapsleftchapsright.. Grey: (Paramount3d PLA - Medusa Stone Gray)base.. Any color: (hidden piece):pinbelt.. ........................................................................................................... Printing and assembly tips Printing tips1 - No supports are required. Three pieces contains built-in supports, hat and moustache left/right. Optional parts without the built-in supports are also supplied if you want to use your slicer supports. The built-in supports are designed for a .4mm nozzle and for the size that the model is presented. Use your discretion for which parts to use if you resize the model significantly. 2 - There are some pieces that may need brims or rafts, use your discretion. When setting up my prints I prefer to be conservative to ensure the least chance of a print failure, especially since the base of many parts are hidden when inserted into another part. I used brims on: - handleft - handright 3 - The eye_black parts are the only parts that are very small. It may be wise to print extra copies in case you drop them. 4 - When removing parts from the printer bed, it's a *VERY** good idea to place left/right parts into separate containers to help with the assembly process. Sometimes the difference between the left and right parts is very small but it is still worth keeping track of them and assembling them in their proper place. ..Assembly tips: 1 - Take your time gluing the model together and enjoy the process. Give some thought into which parts to glue together as groups and then gluing the groups together. Let the glue for each group set completely before combining groups. 2 - I used 3D Gloop and E6000 to put this model together. I am not affiliated with 3D Gloop but have experimented with different glues for my models and have found that this glue is a great option for my models. Each type of glue has different pros/cons and I found that 3D Gloop was far easier to use than superglue (for me). The E6000 sticky glue that I also use allows more time to position parts and is still the best for smaller parts. 3D Gloop covers the middle ground for me and really works wonders. It leaves enough time to set, so parts can be positioned correctly and it dries fast enough to hold awkward parts without the need for taping. I used the PLA version that comes in a tube. For both glues using a smaller amount is usually better than more glue. 3 - Pay special attention to the assembly of the gun. The gun_frame left/right parts are different. Do not glue the gun handle to the gun frame until all the silver parts of the gun are glued together and glued to the hand. Glue the gun handle to the completed hand/gun assembly. 4 - The joint where the head/shirt/nose/moustache/eyebrows connect took a long time for me to create. The end result is easy to print parts that fit together. Dry test all the parts before gluing. 5 - Since the model attaches to the base and shoes in a small area, I found it easier to glue the shoes to the base and glue the chaps to the pants first. Then glue those two parts together. Once the rest of the model is complete, simply glue the two sections together. 6 - Refer to the assembly diagrams in the pictures section as well as the uploaded pictures for putting the model together. The model is meant to be glued. Do not hesitate to ask questions, feedback is essential to making better models.  

About the author:
reddadsteve
Retired software engineer, but still learning new things!

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